occulting device

Vulcanoid Search Topics
Build an occulting fixture for your telescope Mitch Cluck This device is designed to partially occult the objective of your telescope to block out extraneous light from the moon when you wish to observe a fainter object that is located next to the moon. My version is built to connect to my Meade ETX-90EC. You will have to build an appropriate version for any other type of telescope. Adding a layer of solar screen material to the bottom occulting ring structure will allow you to observe the area around the sun without the sun's glare obstructing the view. An alternative method is to use this device without the solar screen material early in the morning when the sun is just coming up over the horizon. Rotate the occulting section so that the sun is blocked from view and observe the surrounding area. Be very careful so that you do not run the risk of damaging your eyesight or telescope from accidental exposure to the sun's extreme light level. The occulting device consists of a 4" PVC pipe coupling with an extension that houses partial occulting disks. The light path of the occulting disks covers approximately 60% of the total aperature. The occulting disks are shaped so that the 60% is shaped in a little over 1/2 the disk diameter with an outside ring to reduce reflections and improve image contrast. The occulting disk are fastened to the outside tube extension with a set of internal blocking of dark paper placed between the various occulting disks to act as spacers and structural reinforcing. The occulting disks and the tube extension are built from black construction paper. This arrangement is fastened to each other and the PVC pipe coupling with white glue. There is a space of 1" between the occulting disks and the tube extension is 8" long. Tghe PVC pipe coupler has 4 "fuzzy" velcro pads fastened onto the coupling to securely mate the occulting fixture to the telescope face so that it does not slip off. To use, just aim the telescope at the moon. Align the fixture so that the occulting section covers the moon leaving the open area to cover the area of the object that you want to observe. this device will block out most of the glare. The occulting rings will trap extraneous light which will improve contrast. This device is very handy for observing faint objects and also planetary observing when the target is so close to the moon that image details are washed out by glare. I have found that CCD imaging in these circumstances are also improved in most respects. There is a problem that blocking approximately 60% of the telescope aperature greatly reduces the image quality. This is something to keep in mind when using this device. Occulting disk top view (very rough). 1 occulting disk every 1" oo o oooo o oooooo o ooooooo o oooooo o oooo oo Occulting fixture side view (very rough) PVC coupler paper tube (8" long) xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx============================= #### 0 0 0 0 0 Fuzzy velcro pad 0 0 0 0 0 0000000000000000000000000 0 ^ 0 0 0 0 ### 0 ^ 0 0 0 0 xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx===^=================^======= ^ ^ Occulting disks spacers (typ.) ^ ^ Occulting disks (typ.) spaced 1" apart.
Submitted by david on Mon, 2005-12-05 15:26.
Unless I am mistaken, it seems that your device only blocks at the center of the field. If we are taking images where the bright object (such as the Sun during an eclipse) is well out of the field of view will this device help?
Submitted by chongo on Tue, 2005-12-06 09:35.

Your field of view will determine if you need to block the Sun/Corona or not.  If your field of view is on the order of a few square degrees or less, then the 2.5° radius of avoidance (centered around the Sun) will be out of the field of view.  On the other extreme, if your field of view extends to a 10.5° radius, then an occulting device that blocks the central 2.5° will be needed.

Another way to look at it is: Will your field of view include a zone that is within 2.5° of the center of the Sun?  If so, then you need some device that will block that zone.  If not, then I believe only efficent light baffeling is needed.

Comments anyone? 

chongo (Landon Curt Noll - http://www.isthe.com/astro.html) /\oo/

Submitted by chongo on Sun, 2005-12-04 23:31.

The problem with imaging close to the Sun during an eclipse is the glow from the corona.  Out to about 2.5° (from the center of the solar disk) the corona exceeds (n the visible portion of the spectrum) the brightness of the zodiacal / general background glow of the sky.  Attempting to image Vulcanoids within 2.5° is not practical except under special circumstances.

Practical Vulcanoid imaging lies in the prime search area (see FAQ 3.1) which goes from beyond the 2.5° coronal avoidance zone out to about 10.5°.  However, even at that angular distance, the glow from totality may impact optical performance even with standard light baffles.

The brightness of the inner photosphere during an eclipse is said to be greater than that of the full moon.  Still an test of the effectiveness of your idea might be obtained by taking images when the full moon was at least 45° above the horizon.  To be relevant to Vulcanoid imaging, your image should be no closer to the moon than 4.5° and no farther from the moon than 10.5°.  Your image exposure time should be less than a medium length eclipse (< 4 minutes).

Perhaps you can take a image with and without your occulting device. Is the limiting magnitude improved significantly with your device?  How much does it improve the limiting magnitude?

chongo (Landon Curt Noll - http://www.isthe.com/astro.html) /\oo/\

Submitted by Mitch Cluck on Tue, 2005-12-06 17:43.
1. I just did a quick build and test of this device for my ETX-90. I will soon build a version for my 12" LX-200 and post the results. 2. My original instructions said to add some solar screen material. I just tested this modification and it was a total bust. Do not need after all as the solar screen will block out faint objects. 3. You can still get better imaging reslts by building this device and aim just off from the sun just before it comes up over the local horizon. I do not know the gain in magnitude yet. The results are only slightly better than without such adevice. 4. You can always just build a device similiar to my device that has an open aperature with lots of light baffles to block off-axis light and improve contrast that way. 5. Please remember that I originally built this for lunar grazing observing and it does work well for thqat purpose. I am still testing the solar observing / vulcanoid application. This is an area that many people can also experiment with and hopefully improve and create an appropriate observing procedure. 6. I will perform my imaging test with both the ETX-90 and the LX-200 using a Meade LPI camera system. 7. Chongo's comment about the area to be scanned (2.5degrees - 10.5 degrees) is what I shall be using for baseline imaging and testing.
Submitted by chongo on Wed, 2005-12-07 07:51.

In regards to your: "... aim just off from the sun just before it comes up over the local horizon ...": Attempting to observe faint objects very near the horizon at dawn or dusk will be a significant challenge.

You need a flat local horizon.  The sky brightness at dawn and dusk is largely a function of the angle of the Sun below the ideal horizon and not the local horizon.  See FAQ 3.5 for more information.

Any local obstruction will impact your ability to see a Vulcanoid.  Consider the case where the Sun is 5° below the ideal horizon.  You will need to observe from the ideal horizon up to about 5.5° above the ideal horizon.  A small obstruction, say 2.5° in altitude, will cutoff half of your available prime search area.  Waiting at dawn for the Sun to rise another 2.5° is a problem because the sky brightness, in terms of photon flux, is increasing exponentially.

As discussed in FAQ 3.4, when the Sun is about 5° below the ideal horizon, the zenith is about as bright as the typical sky during totality.  The challenge of searching for objects near the idea horizon fainter than +8.0 magnitude is made even more significant because of atmospheric extinguishing.  Objects near the idea horizon are fainter.  It is challenging to observe something as bright as Mercury under these conditions, let alone an object fainter than +8.0 magnitude.

I'm not saying that it is impossible to look for Vulcanoid during dawn or dusk.  It is possible, but the challenge is significant. Sometime later I'll post an separate article with some suggestions as to how one might maximize the chance to observe under dawn / dusk conditions.

chongo (Landon Curt Noll - http://www.isthe.com/astro.html) /\oo/\

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